It's not a fancy dairy-based dessert shop, but a greasy-spoon diner serving cheap Polish comfort food subsidized by the government.ĭairy farmer Stanisław Dłużewski opened the first one, Mleczarnia Nadświdrzańska, in Warsaw in 1896, selling cheap milk and egg-based meals. "Tastes just like my grandmother's," he says. It's the same Sunday dinner of Russian dumplings and potato pancakes he's had here for the last seven years. Jakub Szwedowski, a 32-year-old postal worker, is finishing his Sunday dinner at one of the tables, which are decorated with tiny vases of fabric flowers. Inside, there's a window-sized menu offering Polish-style soups, eggs, dumplings, cabbage and potatoes, all cooked by women in flowered aprons and schoolteacher glasses. Zlota Kurka, or Golden Hen, sits in a central Warsaw neighborhood surrounded by telecom offices and wine bars. But Poles are embracing these diners once again for their cheap Polish food. Today, there are fewer milk bars like this one than in the Soviet era.
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